CROCHET BUTTONS

 

Leaving a 4" tail, make a magic loop (there are lots of good tutorials out there for the magic loop, including this one from Lolly over at This Domestic Life):

Chain 1, then half-double crochet 12 in ring. 

Tug on starting end of thread to close magic loop. 

Slip stitch in first half-double crochet (hdc) to close the circle of stitches.

Slip stitch 11 more times with gentle tension, once in each hdc around the button.

See how the slip stitches make a sort of braid sitting on top of the button? This is the front of the button, by the way.

Cut yarn, leaving a 4-6" tail.

Pull end of yarn up and out of stitch, but DO NOT TUG.

We're going to make a nice seamless closure on the edge of the button.

Thread yarn onto darning needle, then pass the needle through the next stitch to the left, from FRONT to BACK.

The yarn should go through the back loop of the slip stitch AND the loop just behind that:

Now bring the needle to the right, and pass it from front to back through the back loop of your last slip stitch (where the thread was tugged out of the stitch).

Pull gently to close the loop.

Et voilà! A seamless edge.

Turn the button over, and GENTLY pass the needle through the stitches on reverse side of button, to a spot that is on the opposite side of the center hole from the original yarn end.

Gently tie the two ends in a double knot. And you're done!

You can use these yarn ends to attach the button to your project.

 Note: it will behave like a shank button, attached in the middle but rather wobbly.

When thread is left knotted in the middle,
the button will act like a shank button

If you want your button to sit flush against your project without wobbling, thread each yarn end on the darning needle (one at a time) and pass back through a few strands on each side until the ends come out of the button about 1/4" apart. It will now function more like a traditional 2-hole button.

For a button that sits flush against your project and doesn't wobble,
follow these steps.

Happy crocheting!